ASCENDANCY HEARTS & ARROWS
AN AMERICAN JEWELERS QUEST FOR THE RAREST ROUND BRILLIANT CUTS
In January of 2000 we were first introduced to a Hearts & Arrows Round Brilliant Cut diamond. Two years prior to this introduction, we made the decision to take the leap and enter the uncharted waters of the world wide web while still in its infancy. Although we were excited to see what would happen with this new venture, we weren’t clear on exactly how consumers would react to making a buying purchase online. When we first started publishing analysis on diamonds such as photomicrographs, the Sarine DiaMension® reports, and the lab reports such as GIA, we began getting inquiries for Hearts & Arrows diamonds. Never before had we witnessed cutting done at such precision, and now we had a tool (the “Hearts & Arrows Viewer”) to demonstrate to our clients the rare levels of precision cutting. Later that year, in June of 2000, we were introduced to technology that would help us critically analyze light return vs. light leakage in a diamond: the Ideal-Scope. The Ideal-Scope not only showed us optical precision but also showed us other factors that determine a diamond’s beauty, not only in round brilliant cuts but in all shapes and cutting styles. We were amazed at how the technology, for the most part, correlated with what our eyes were already seeing. This tool was the beginning of our journey into the world of diamond cut grading.
As time passed, we acquired more new technologies to help us analyze light return, light leakage, and optical symmetry. At the time, these factors were not employed by either the GIA or AGS cut grading systems. Over the years we have worked intimately with the most advanced optical technologies on the market as well as the finest diamond scanners to measure the exact facet lengths and angles that contribute to what we know are the rarest and most beautiful diamonds in the world. These technologies included the GemEx BrillianceScope, the Isee2 Machine and the Octonus Ray Tracing software. We intensely studied diamonds using all the available technology and correlated that information along with human observation. Out intense study led us to define four ideal cuts that are still available on the market today, including our Ascendancy™ Hearts & Arrows diamonds.
The following criteria must be met for a diamond to be an Ascendency™ Hearts & Arrows diamond. 1. The diamond must be accompanied by either a GIA Triple Excellent or AGS Triple Ideal grading report.
1. The diamond must be accompanied by either a GIA triple Excellent or AGS Triple Ideal Report.
2. If the diamond is a GIA Triple Excellent it must have confirmed AGS Ideal Light Performance via the AGS PGS analysis.
3. If the diamond is an AGS Triple Ideal it must receive GIA Ex via the GIA Facetware analysis.
4. The diamond must exhibit a uniform and even Hearts pattern on the pavilion demonstrated with photographic evidence.
5. The diamond must exhibit no extraneous light leakage via FireScope/DiamXray analysis.
6. The diamond must exhibit a perfect saturation of reds combined with the perfect distribution of blues/greens via AGS ASET technology.
7. The diamond must have average proportions that fall into what we know are the absolute rarest “orthodox” proportion set for modern round brilliant cuts. This includes the following criteria…
- Table sizes between 53-58%.
- Crown angles between 34-35.0 degrees.
- Pavilion angles between 40.6 – 41 degrees.
- Total depth must be =<62.2%.
- Lower Half Facets must be within 75% - 80%
- Star % between 48-55%
8.While these diamonds constitute the rarest round brilliant cuts on the globe, that's not to say they are the *only* beautiful diamonds out there with regards to 57 faceted round brilliant cuts. We stock and feature another tier of cherry-picked rounds we simply refer to as our "Platinum Select". To learn about these and how they differ from our Ascendancy Hearts & Arrows click HERE .
FAQ'S ON ASCENDANCY HEARTS & ARROWS
1. If I am considering an AGS Ideal or GIA Excellent Cut, doesn't the (AGS) Ideal grade or (GIA) Excellent Cut alone guarantee I am getting the best optics in a diamond?
No. While AGS & GIA are considered the most conservative labs in the world with regards to cut quality, both top grades allow for certain amounts of light leakage, which impacts a diamond’s optics.
Here is one example. Note the precision in the Hearts image but the leakage is pretty blatant.
The above diamond has a GIA Excellent grade. But this is hardly a solid red, indicating the blatant light leakage.
2. Aren't all Hearts & Arrows diamonds equally beautiful?
No. It is possible for diamonds with precise or superior optical symmetry to suffer from extraneous light leakage, as shown in those above graphics.
3. What if the diamond has AGS Ideal optics but just isn't a Hearts & Arrows? Will it be as beautiful?
It can be. It’s hard to make a general statement about different diamonds. While every diamond is different and there are different scenarios. There are modified rounds with great optics, our August Vintage Rounds that aren’t H&A’s, and other exceptions. One thing I will say about the Ascendancy’s is that they are the longest running diamond we’ve carried and stood the test of time in popularity.
While we certainly aren't the only company featuring Hearts & Arrows diamonds there are a number of reasons you should consider purchasing with us.
- We perform an extensive gemological analysis, above and beyond the GIA or AGS report, a comparison video on request to ensure you are getting the absolute best diamond for your money.
- If you buy an Ascendency™ Hearts & Arrows diamond from us, they come with a generous buy-back and trade up-policy.
- Good Old Gold has a great reputation with customer service with an extremely knowledgeable team who’ve been with us for years.
- Every one of our Ascendancy™ Hearts & Arrows diamonds is accompanied with a full appraisal report which includes all the data, photography, and reports featured on the diamond’s web page. This is vital because if you lose the ring, the insurance company is obligated to replace only what is described in your appraisal report. Few appraisers give the detail and photography we include in our report, which is valued at $250 and up.
4. Are Ascendancy™ the only diamonds you sell with the best optics possible combined with the tightest precision?
No. We feature a number of diamonds with Ideal optics that are cut to the same level of precision. Our August Vintage European Cuts and Cushions, as well as Solasfera rounds, are other brands of diamonds cut to equal precision coupled with the rarest optics. The difference between those diamonds and the Ascendency™ diamonds is in the manner in which they reflect light back to the eye.